Sun Mar 2 20:08:17 2008

Mon Jan 21 21:19:36 2008 - Here is what the inside looks like when everything is latched up. Keep in mind, I still have to install the push rod portion of the mechanism.

Mon Jan 21 21:19:18 2008 - Some time ago I opted to use the Canopy Side Handle mechanism from Fairings Etc. Well, the time has come to install the mechanism. Problem is, no instructions. No problem, I fired off a question over at VAF and I got my answers. The mechanism is quite fascinating to watch in action. I can only wonder how long it took Bob to perfect it.

Mon Jan 21 21:18:47 2008 - The paint samples have had about 5 weeks to dry/cure. Needless to say, I was somewhat surprised at the results. My "scientific" method of adhesive testing was simple - "Could I peal the paint with my thumb nail at a corner or edge?". Yup - sure can. On all the samples where I did not rough up the surface but instead used Sherwin Williams GBP-988 self-etching primer, I was able to easily scratch off areas in corners. The top three samples show this. The samples where I roughened up the surfaces with a Scotch Bright pad prior to painting were plenty durable. At least according to the "thumb nail" test. So that solves what method I'm going to use to paint the interior. And, the way, all samples were cleaned with laquer thinner prior to applying any paint.

Sun Dec 16 12:52:06 2007 - One of these is probably going to be the interior color of the cabin. Top left is Rust-Oleum #7770 Almond Gloss. Top right is Rust-Oleum #210372 Biscuit Appliance Epoxy Gloss. Bottom left is Valspar #53319-13 (aka Ford Grey) Oil Enamel. This is the same color (or damn close) as the gear towers, engine mount, flap rod, etc. Bottom right is Rust-Oleum #7758 Almond Satin. The picture was taken in sunlight with a sheet of bright white paper as background for comparison purposes. I like the almond and biscuit for their neutral color. The panel will most likely be either a black, dark grey, or dark almond with satin finishes. I made two samples of each color - one with a Sherwin William GBP-988 primer w/o any scuffing of the aluminum and the other with slight scuffing but without any GBP-988. All pieces were cleaned w/ laguer thinner before applying any primer/paint. I'm gonna let this cure for a couple of days then subject them to some "hashness". You'll notice that there's a bunch of crap in the paint. I had to open the garage door to allow some fresh air in - unfortunately it was _very_ breezy this afternoon with gusts up to 33 knots out at KGTU.

Fri Dec 7 21:31:10 2007 - Latest progress shot. I think I'm ready to rivet all the parts along the baggage bulkhead starting with the side skin and slowly moving forward.

Fri Dec 7 21:31:10 2007 - This week I've been working on the instrument panel guts. I was a little concerned that the outboard edges of the forward top skin weren't going to fit but it ended being a non-event. This pre-punch hole technology just continues to impress me. I'm considering the addition of a couple of access panels on the top. Also, I need to start thinking about panel layout and whether to go with a custom panel or not. I've had in the back of my mind to go with a dual display GRT system. Now that they have a high resolution system available, I'm thinking about a single screen. We'll see....

Fri Dec 7 21:31:09 2007 - And here it is. It is getting time to pick an interior paint color. Now is the time while everything is still very accessible and open. I can't decide between a light/medium grey or a light beige. I've been studying the interiors of other planes and cars to get some ideas.

Fri Dec 7 21:31:08 2007 - I got the roll bar completed last week. Overall, everything worked our pretty well. The roll bar ended up about 1/16" too wide so it's a little snug going sliding into position.

Sat Aug 11 21:26:56 2007 - I've yet to drill/c-sink it to the firewall and bend the ear for the adel clamp. A couple of notes: The firewall was dimpled and the bracket countersunk; The big bracket was made from .040" 2024-T3 aluminum sheet; there is also a .060" 2024-T4 directly under the valve to allow countersinking for the ANI509 screws; I'm going to attach a "B" nut to the Matco's arm (ACS #05-16245) - but until that gets in, I'm not going to bend the "ear". On a lighter note, I managed to work with the SS firewall and managed not to cut myself. ;)