Sat Aug 11 19:14:46 2007 - The Matco Parking Brake has been an interesting learning experience. After looking at other folks designs/solutions, I settled on this on (which I borrowed from Dave Parsons). I had purchased TurboCAD a couple of months ago with the intent of doing my electrical system in it. I figured that drawing this attachment plate would be a good exercise given that I really haven't ever used CAD before. Some design criteria: I had considered relocating the Matco valve but I wanted to reuse the existing holes from the original brake line bracket; Several builders had commented that the firewall flexes to much when actuating the brake valve so I needed some extra rigidity; I needed to keep the valve as far forward as possible to prevent any interference with the rudder pedals; and I wanted to maintain a smooth firewall for any possible future attachments.

Sat Aug 4 20:56:29 2007 - Riveted on the nutplates to the Andair valve. The Andair valves are very modular and it helps to remove the flare fittings in order to rivet on the nutplates. It took some effort to get them to come off the first time. The valve comes with screws that are to be peened but I'll wait till everything is together in the fuel valve area. The AN fitting (sorry, no AN part number - Van's description is "F SWIVEL TEE ANDAIR/FI FITTING") is used to allow fuel to recirculate from the AFP pump.

Wed Jul 25 19:24:54 2007 - Santa Claus showed up today (aka the UPS Dude). I opted to substitute Van's brakes for a set made by Grove Aircraft Co.. I also requested that Viton o-rings be substituted which they did for free. Viton has a temperature range in the neighborhood of -40˚F to +450˚F. Nitrile (aka Buna N - which is what is normally used) o-rings are generally good for -40˚F to +212˚F.

Wed Jul 25 19:22:57 2007 - Failed attempts and lot's of frustration trying to fit the tubing around the rudder cable and pieces of angle. I used short pieces of scrap to practice on. Hmmm..maybe I should arrange them into some kind of sculpture.

Wed Jul 25 19:21:59 2007 - Making use of adel clamps while wrestling with the tubing was very helpful.

Wed Jul 25 19:21:35 2007 - The left side was much easier than the right and it only took about 40 minutes versus 3 evenings for the right. I've got some extra tubing coming so I might redo the right side.

Wed Jul 25 18:42:25 2007 - I found it helpful to place a pen line down the axis of the tubing to indicate the inside of the bend. This provided orientation and it's easy to look up in the tubing bender to see the line.

Wed Jul 25 18:08:31 2007 - These bends are tricky because you are not only trying to go around the rudder cable, but you need to also work forward a bit and around the piece of angle. Don't forget, there are two spacers to offset of fitting inward. And be careful not to put too much of a bend at the very end that you can't install your nut and sleeve (in the proper orientation, of course) and flare the end. Another hint, the AN fitting does not need to be vertical. I rotated mine just a little to match up with the tubing.

Wed Jul 25 18:08:12 2007 - Sorry to say, I spent waaaayyyy to much time on this. Finally got it on the 3rd evening. The second one was completed in about 40 minutes. A couple of notes: 1) Get yourself a good tubing bender (the Imperial 370-FH is quite nice) and learn how to use it - Dave Parsons has an excellent tutorial, 2) Don't forget to compensate for the thickness of the adel clamps when you make your bends, 3) I used a spring bender to form the bends on the aft end. I spent way to much time and effort taking things out and trying to make things fit. You just gotta get in there and go to town. Careful, though. The aluminum tubing will work harden in a couple of bends.