Sun Oct 25 19:29:58 2009 - The PlanePower instructions say to direct cool air via a blast tube to the rear of the unit. That is all well and good. However, how in the heck do I make a U-Turn and attach said tube so that cool air is directed towards to regulator on the back. I played around with a couple of ideas including 1) forming some SS hinge pin into a hanger of sorts and 2) fabricating a shelf to attach the tube to. I didn't like option #1 since it is a pretty long reach to that screw that holds the baffling and working with SS is not one of my favorite pastimes. So, I'm going to give option #2 a try.

Sun Oct 25 10:43:37 2009 - Installed the crankcase breather tube. I don't know what aluminium allow the tube is made from, but it is bear to work with. Best thing to work it with was the "spring" benders and a lot of elbow grease.

Wed Oct 21 16:15:46 2009 - I opted to go with a hidden hinge that's spring loaded from Non-Stop Aviation. And on the flip side, I used the standard "bat-wing" fasteners. Oh well.

Mon Oct 19 19:23:43 2009 - 3/8" worth of flanges.

Mon Oct 19 18:49:49 2009 - Time to do the oil door. Measured it all out, did the rough cut with the Roto-Zip, sanded, ready to go.

Sun Oct 18 16:24:05 2009 - Decided it was time to tackle the bottom cowl support bracket down by the exhaust system. For such a simple piece, it took a long time to fabricate (crawl, measure, assemble, inspect, crawl, assemble, measure, etc.). I opted to epoxy the bottom three layers rather than juggle four pieces of aluminium. This simplified things greatly.

Sun Aug 30 14:04:56 2009 - Properly attached the mixture and throttle controls with capture washers.

Sun Aug 30 14:02:54 2009 - The aft baffle support brace also makes a nice attachment point for various things. The bolts holding the ignition coils will be replaced with drilled head bolts so that they can be properly safety wired (they were marked for drilling but then I decided just to order some AN3H-7A's).

The primary ignition wires were supposed to follow along the baffle brace but I later decided to just run straight aft. Makes for keeping them separate from signal wires and routing them to passenger side where the "brain box" will be installed. I'm trying to keep noisy electrical sources (primary ignition, power busses, etc) separate from signal level sources (temp probes, ignition trigger, etc) as best as I can.

Sun Aug 30 14:02:42 2009 - I had planned on installing the ignition coils on the engine mount but then realised that if I moved the engine hoist hook forward on hole, that things would fit into place. I have plenty of room between things so that they cannot vibrate against other items; the ignition wires laid out nicely - just need to replace one with a different length; I did not like how the adel clamp on the spider fit so I made a bracket. So that is what I did. Not everything is tied down but things are in place ready to go. Just need to submit another ACS order.

Tue Aug 25 18:31:20 2009 - I ended up using the two lower right screws. The bracket is offset using a couple of washers between it and the valve cover. I also had to use some longer screws. Everything just seemed to fall into place. Instead of messing with small nuts and washers to attach the adel clamp, I also installed a nut-plate. So much easier to install/adjust, now.