Mon Aug 24 19:53:01 2009 - I noticed this little blunder this evening. The two rivets sit on top of each other. I'm going to replace both rivets with an AN509-8 screw, a couple of washers, and a metal lock nut. Hmmm, I'll also have to move the rubber seal aft so that there will be a good seal between the two metal baffles. Moving on....

Mon Aug 24 19:50:07 2009 - I think I've a plan to get around this kludge. I'm going to get some 1/8" aluminium plate and make a bracket that ties into the two lower left screws of the valve cover. Everything is very close to being on the same vertical plane so it should work out pretty well. And it will look a lot better.

Mon Aug 24 19:48:52 2009 - Installed the lower baffle tension rods. I've yet to install some -6 washers of which I'm out of. Van's would have you thread some 1/8" stainless rod. Anybody who has worked with stainless knows better. It was suggested that I use some 1/8" tig welding rod but the local welding supply only sold it by the pound (35 USD). I called up my Tech Counselor and asked about brass - no problem. So I got a six foot stick down at the local metal supply shop 2.50 USD + tax.

Sun Aug 23 19:09:56 2009 - Another topic of discussion last night was fire-sleeve. All braided lines carrying fluids under pressure got appropriately "dressed". I also got a lesson on Adel clamp tricks last night. Here's how the fuel line is supported in order to get around the engine mount. It is deceiving in the picture, but there is plenty of slack to allow the engine to vibrate.

Sun Aug 23 19:00:19 2009 - I also knocked out the alternate air system. I got really bogged down on this whole cable attachment process. Again, because I deviated from plans, I had to make some custom attachments. This is all going to have to be removed and reinstalled when the panel is complete. I did see another builder employ a method in which the engine controls could be removed from the panel without having to remove the engine controls. His solution was to cut a slot in the bottom of his panel to allow the controls to slide down and out. He also made some attractive washers to conceal the slot.

Sun Aug 23 18:59:05 2009 - Last night was a project visit. One of the items of discussion was how to support the fuel line. The answer was simple; make a small strap that extends from the corner sump bolt.

Fri Aug 21 17:26:31 2009 - Made the small relief in the snorkel for the oil return line. Again, I used the "florist's foam" and gently formed an indentation with my fingers. I then removed the foam and coated the indentation and surrounding areas in a couple layers of wood glue and let it dry. Then I applied a layer of Carnuba Wax and put down a layer of glass. I mixed the "fast" catalyst since this was a small job and within a number of minutes it was starting to gel up. I gave it a couple more minutes and removed the foam mold then let the epoxy fully cure.

Sat Aug 8 13:53:58 2009 - I call it 'Spotted Plenum'. I think I read some place it will add '10 Knots'. Anyways, this is after all three layers have been laid down along with some extra layers here and there. I'm not very satisfied with how the two plenums mated up. So, when this sets up, I'll remove the assembly so that it is easier to work on and focus on the transition between the original and new plenums. Thank you again, Scott.

Sat Aug 8 09:12:19 2009 - Scott (N4822C) was king enough to "show me the basic ropes" of fiberglassing this morning. These are the very rough paper templates. Those templates where laid out on some fiberglass cloth then wetted out between two layers of plastic sheet. Before I knew it, one layer had been laid down. Scott had other commitments so he left me to by own disasters (fortunately there weren't any). This stuff is so cool! It's amazing how this stuff lays down. The trick is all in how the fabric is woven.

Tue Aug 4 18:34:30 2009 - Removed all the stuff that was in the way - starter, alternator, and alternator bracket. I then installed the plenum and wrapped the foam in Saran Wrap. Aniko was kind enough to give me the rest of the kitchen roll so that I could cut 2" mini-rolls from it. This made it very easy to wrap the entire assembly in place. It has been _long_ time since I worked with fiberglass and what I did work with, did not involve these complex compound curves. Might be time to solicit some expert advice and know-how.